Torino Day 1
Saturday 20th June 2026
Italy is in the grip of a heatwave. 35C during the day and still 29C at 10pm. Fortunately the tall buildings and the many kilometres of porticos provide good shadow (the local term for shade) to stay out of direct sunlight. We dined alfresco for breakfast downstairs at the lovely pasticceria (pastry shop). It was a cool respite, sitting outdoors watching the city wake up around us. No cars drove past but there was enough space on the wide paved, via Garribaldi, for the small electric trucks, used for street sweeping and garbage collection. Couples of all ages walked along with occasional “Buongiorno”s to our waiter, bicycles dodged and dogs lead their owners, wherever the dogs wanted. So we lingered over a second cuppa before exploring the Saturday vibe of Torino.
Coffee, everyone uses it as a barometer of travel convenience. In Italy, of course it is good but how do you order it? When we started off in Rome it was a simple as ordering an “Americano” which is an espresso topped up with hot water, served in what an Australian would call a small cup (still smaller than a tea cup). We spent some time figuring out how to order extra hot water and make the drink go a little further (calder aqua). Now in our third week we still order “Americano” which comes as an espresso shot in the same smallish cup and the hot water is in a jug, which is great because then we can add as much as we want. For a small dash of hot milk (calder latte) this is served in a petite jug, once again great to make the coffee just the way you like. Of course cappuccino is a whole new story!!

Espresso

Via Garibaldi from our balcony
The substantial buildings, all 5 levels in height, the many piazzas (which are the largest I have seen anywhere so far in Italy), the generously proportioned porticos, and the beautiful arcades with their exquisite window dressing makes for a fun way to fill in the morning. Piazza San Carlo was the scene of a small military display along with a brass band and wreath laying. Just to one side the Miss Italy contestants were participating in a photo shoot. When we took time out for a cool drink and a snack in one of the arcades a musician entertained playing the clarinet.

Miss Italy contestants

The harp player in Piazza San Carlo

St Cristina’s overlooking the piazza

The porticos

Window displays

a jewellery display

A clothing shop, not a violin in sight

An odd shaped building taking advantage a narrow block

The trams and buses squeeze through the porticos that adjoin the buildings

one of the many arcades
Dinner this evening was at a lovely little restaurant around the corner in one of the narrow laneways. We tried out some different dishes including the Tomino Boscaiolo – a grilled white cheese served with walnuts, caramelised onion and honey. It’s appearance is similar to a burrata but much tastier. This was followed by a pasta dish of Malfatti (little parcels stuffed with meat) served with bacon and velvety peppers. My main dish was grilled venison with sauteed escarole (a leafy green vegetable), pine nuts and a red berry sauce. For the wine we savoured an unusual grape variety Grignolino from the Asti region. Yet another spectacular Italian meal.

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